How to Grow Kale in the Portland Area

By Pritha Golden Steele

Kale is a delicious versatile green beloved by many. It is a vegetable that can really thrive in our climate and can be grown nearly year-round. It can also get destroyed by pests if measures aren’t taken to prevent damage. Perhaps one season your kale grew wonderfully and the next it was riddled with pests. Many folks give up on kale altogether because of this, but once you know a few strategies to address common issues, you will be able to grow beautiful kale with much more consistency.

Sunlight:

Kale thrives in full sun, but compared to many garden veggies it can tolerate more shade than some others. In the summer your kale can tolerate and even be happy with some afternoon shade (particularly during the hottest hours of the day). During winter, kale prefers as much sunlight as possible. Regardless of the spot you choose, make sure the kale will receive a minimum of 6 hours of sun per day.

Fertility and plant spacing:

As with all veggies, excellent fertility is of the utmost importance and kale is a relatively “heavy feeder”. This means that in most cases, in addition to the foundational spring soil amendment (see this blog post to learn more about that) kale will do well to have ¼ cup of all-purpose organic fertilizer  mixed into each hole when you are transplanting the starts. Although the starts looks small at the outset – don't get fooled. Give the kale plants at least 18” between themselves or any other plants. If the kale is next to a plant which will grow taller than it (say a tomato) make sure to place the plants strategically so they get enough sun. Put the taller plant to the north of your kale or (only during the summer) to the west of your kale (which will only block sun in the heat of the day.)

Timing of Planting and management:

Spring kale: 

March is an ideal time to plant your Spring kale (although you can plant as early as late February or through the month of April. Early in the season, we recommend covering the plants with a floating row cover, sometimes called frost blanket. This will make your kale grow more quickly AND protect it from insects and bird damage. You can grow beautiful kale without cover at this time of year, as it is quite frost tolerant, and pests are typically not as active. It will simply be more at risk to pest damage and grow more slowly. 

Fall and Winter Kale:

While it is possible for your spring kale to maintain health for the whole season and last through the winter, you cannot count on it happening every year. For that reason we generally plant our overwintered kale between mid-July and mid-August. Kale is a cool season crop but you will be planting it in the heat of summer, so you do need to take extra care growing it during this generally hot time of year. Make sure to avoid planting it directly before a hot spell, and provide the plant with plenty of water. Additionally, pests will be very active this time of year and your plants will be small, so pest management is very important for success. That being said, if you are able to establish healthy plants heading into the colder months, you will have lovely greens to eat all winter long!


Pests:

*Please note we are not paid by anyone to recommend any products we discuss below. We are simply sharing practices / products that have worked well for us.

There are four main kale pests that are important to know about: aphids, cabbage looper maggots, slugs and birds. If you consistently address anticipated pest issues from the start, you should be able to maintain relatively pest free plants with only 10 minutes of your time every other week.

First, to address aphids, you must get to know what an aphid looks like! Then, you will thoroughly search your plants for them bi-weekly and use insecticidal soap to kill off any aphids you find. Make sure the look under any curled leaves and all the itty bitty new growth – they are VERY good at hiding!

Second, for cabbage looper maggots, it is less important to know what they look like because the management is preventative. If there are no eggs or caterpillars on the leaves, covering the kale with frost blanket (in cold months) or insect netting (in warm months) is an effective method to prevent cabbage looper from reaching the plants. If your kale has no cover, thoroughly spraying the plants with Bt every other week should keep the caterpillars at bay.

Bt (‘Bacillus thuringiensis’) is a non-toxic bacterial spray that interferes with the digestive systems of the caterpillars that feed on kale and other brassicas. Make sure to find a dry window and/or spray the bottom of the leaves to prevent the rain from immediately washing it off the plant. Additionally, because Bt is a living organism, it can be killed by high temperatures, so avoid spraying Bt during the hottest part of the day for maximum efficacy.

Third, in the cooler, wet seasons of the year, we find it works well to preventatively apply Sluggo weekly or bi-weekly. You want to apply it BEFORE you see slugs because once the slugs are in your kale plant, the Sluggo won’t be as effective. That being said, at any time of year, if you see any evidence of slugs, immediately apply Sluggo and do a thorough search of the leaves removing any slugs you find.

Finally, if you are taking all of these measures and you are STILL seeing a series of little holes that are generally near the flattest part of the leaf, it is likely from little birds that are perching on the leaves and pecking for a snack. Just start watching the plants and you will see them. If you don’t mind a few holes, this actually does not damage the quality of the greens from a culinary perspective. Perhaps the easiest option is to accept some leaf damage. Other options are to grow curly or frilly leafed kale that birds cannot perch on, or to keep your kale covered with insect netting, bird netting or frost blanket.

Whether you are growing kale in the spring or fall, we are confident that if you follow these guidelines, your experience growing kale will be transformed. Wishing you a wonderful growing season and an abundant harvest!

How to Grow Sugar Snap Peas

By Pritha Golden Steele

Sugar snap peas are a wonderful plant to grow for the beginning and seasoned gardener alike. They are easy to grow, very well suited to growing in the pacific northwest, and delicious. Peas are also an absolute joy for kids! Below we lay out instructions on how to grow this garden favorite. All peas share the same plant care, so whether you want to grow snow peas, shelling peas or sugar snap peas, all of the following information applies.


Seed or start?

Once your soil is well amended with fresh compost and fertilizer you may ask yourself “should I plant seeds or starts?” We typically recommend growing peas by seed because they grow so well by seed, and a low quality start runs the risk of stunting your plants. Another advantage of growing peas by seed is that you get to choose from a MUCH wider variety of options and get exactly the kind you want, or have fun exploring new varieties. When planting by seed, just make sure to plant your seeds with appropriate depth, spacing and water.

That being said, when grown from a high quality start, peas can do very well and you should choose what is right for you. If you buy pea starts just make sure to select smaller plants, ideally about 1”-2” tall. The fragile roots of larger starts can be damaged during the transplant process. If the plants are even a little tall, leggy, yellow or rootbound you are much better off going with seed.


Plant selection

When selecting your peas make sure to read the label and learn what the height of the plant is. If you have a sizable trellis that is 4 or more feet tall, you can grow a standard vining pea. The advantage of this is that the peas make excellent use of vertical space in the garden, producing lots of food but only taking up minimal bed space. If you do not have a trellis, you will want to select a dwarfing variety.

Our favorite pea varieties

Sugar snap pea

Super Sugar Snap – very reliable, prolific producer and unmatched flavor

Sugar Ann  – early producer and a good productivity for a smaller plant

Snow Pea

Oregon Sugar Pod II - produces big, plump delicious pea pods

Shelling pea

Green Arrow  - prolific producer of very sweet flavorful peas

Timing of planting and protection

Peas are one of the earliest seeds you can plant in our climate. We often plant our peas in February or early March under a frost blanket. The frost blanket does two essential things: 1) it keeps the seeds warm promoting germination, and 2) it protects the peas from hungry birds and rodents. Without this protective cover, the peas are very vulnerable to predation. Make sure your peas are in the ground by the end of April at the latest, as they are not heat loving plants.

Location of planting and care

Peas will do well to be planted in a sunny location at the north end of a garden bed. Planting peas to the north of shorter plants avoids shading out the other veggies, increasing yields and plant health. The more that ranging pea branches are reattached to the trellis, or pulled in with twine, the smaller the footprint of peas in the garden bed. This practice is an excellent way to maximize the productivity in your garden. The smaller the space, the more impactful these practices will be. 

Harvest and enjoy

The best part of growing peas is eating them! Hopefully you learned a few things that will help increase your success growing peas in the garden and this season you have a wonderful harvest!

Why Grow Food in Raised Beds?

By Pritha Golden Steele

Gardening is both an art and a science, and for many, a bit of a mystery. I can’t tell you how many people have told me “I just don’t have a green thumb.” But I can’t emphasize this enough – EVERYONE – has what it takes to grow food. The life sustaining relationship between people and plants goes back as long as humans have existed. Working with plants to provide sustenance, medicine and more is part of our basic humanity.

That doesn’t mean everyone needs to have a garden, but for those who venture on the journey of growing food, it can mean a lot of guesswork and a lot of failures along the way. And you may be asking yourself should I grow my food in raised beds or just in the ground? If you are considering raised beds versus in ground, below are some benefits of raised beds to take into consideration.

Soil

After the correct site selection and a location with sufficient sun, soil is absolutely the most important factor in your garden’s success.

Choose your soil

While the art of building healthy soil from the dirt outside your doorstep can be a fun challenge for some, for the average gardener diving into the depths of soil testing, and pH adjustments, soil drainage and aggregation is overwhelming and can create a barrier to success. Add the fact that many with urban garden plots are concerned with possible pollutants and some folks just give up all together. Raised beds allow you to bring in the highest quality soil to your garden (soil selection is not the time to cut corners) and set the stage for many years of successful gardening. It makes all the difference.

Get an earlier start on the season

In our climate, the limiting factor affecting when people can get their first veggies in the ground is typically muddy soil. Because raised beds are above ground level, water drains out of them more quickly than the ground. As well, most soils in the Portland area have high clay content which makes for a heavy soil that drains and dries slowly, whereas the right soil mix will have much better drainage. Use of raised beds enables you to plant during the earliest possible window each year.

Ease of spring soil preparation

To grow healthy plants you must feed your soil and it’s microbiome. For a baseline maintenance of healthy soil, we add organic compost to our gardens each year, and recommend this practice for any vegetable garden. Digging the compost into the soil of in-ground beds is MUCH more labor intensive than integrating into a lighter soil higher off the ground. This makes your very needed annual compost application comparatively quick and easy compared to that of in-ground beds.


Protect your body/ ADA accessibility

The added height of a raised bed is easier on your body and can hugely improve accessibility in the garden. Raised beds can make gardening accessible to folks in wheel chairs or for whom bending all the way to the ground isn’t an option. For many people, even if bending over is an option, in-ground gardening still comes with a fair amount of back pain. Raised beds can be custom built to the exact needed height and provide space to sit, to address all the issue above.

Save time weeding

When you bring soil into your raised beds, you can choose to bring soil with next to no weeds! Because the raised bed creates a barrier between your veggies and the surrounding lawn and garden, it protects the space from infiltration of new weeds. With proper management you can prevent entry of new weeds from ever taking place and have a future of spending only very minimal time weeding your garden. This is a huge time saver and is implausible with in-ground beds.

Grow more food in a small space

Raised beds contain a significant depth of high fertility soil that is fully aerated, and well drained which make it easy for plant roots to move through soil, and access everything they need. Unlike an in-ground bed, you can plant right to the very edge of your raised bed, maximizing the amount of food you get out of the space.

Many of our clients come to us because they feel that they could spend 10 years of trial and error, learning how to grow food by internet search (or maybe they already have), but they want to cut through the conflicting information and really learn the skills from a professional. Similarly, when you are working with an ecological system there are an overwhelming number of variables that you need to take into account. Raised beds are helpful because they remove many of the hard to understand variables and greatly increase success in the garden.

Using Row Cover And Mulch To Get More Out Of Your Winter Garden

By Pritha Golden Steele

Have you ever planted fall or winter veggies only to grow small plants that never reach maturity? Or have you lost your plants to frost before you even get to harvest them? By no fault of their own, many people plant vegetable starts from the nursery without knowing that the plant is being sold during a time of year when it will never become fully mature before cool temperatures slow the plant’s growth to a sloth-like pace. 

Eat abundantly year round!

First and foremost, knowing what to plant when is the foundation for success in a winter garden. Read our blog post Top Ten Winter Vegetables For Your Home Garden to learn more about when to plant some of the most popular winter veggies. Once you have established your fall and winter garden, you can use season extension techniques like row cover and mulch to enhance your harvest.

What is row cover ?

Row cover is an agricultural fabric designed to cover your crop. Some covers are primarily used to keep insects from your plants, while others are used to trap heat or for both. During the coldest months, we like to use a thicker row cover (also called frost blanket) which allows sunlight and rain in, is breathable, and acts as a miniature greenhouse by trapping heat from the sun during the day and slowing the release of heat at night.

When using a frost blanket in your fall and winter garden it has two primary functions. First, the constant increased ambient temperature causes more rapid plant growth. Second, it protects plants from frost damage.

When should I use row cover?

Below are some basic guidelines for when to use frost blanket in the fall and winter months in Portland, but keep in mind that these are generalized. Variety and maturity of the plant, your specific microclimate and winter conditions are all important factors affecting plant hardiness. 

If you have fall or winter crops that are smaller than is ideal, you can speed up their growth by covering them with row cover once daily highs are below 65 degrees. To use row cover for frost protection, start tracking the night time lows in the second half of October. When you see night time lows below freezing it is time to cover select plants in your winter garden. 

Lettuce, cilantro, bok choi, and celery will tolerate some light frost but repeated frosts or harder frost will damage and eventually kill the plant. Cover these plants with a frost blanket, and you will be amazed by how long you can extend their harvest into the winter. 

Spinach, escarole, and scallions are quite frost tolerant in terms of survival, but cold and wind can damage their leaves and reduce the harvest. Use of a frost blanket will enhance both leaf growth and quality, notably increasing your harvest.

Collard greens, kale, chard, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, parsley, arugula, leeks and many mustard greens are extremely frost tolerant and will produce high quality crops without any need for cover.

Mulch for season extension?

Typically our winters are mild enough that the soil protects root crops such as carrots, parsnips, beets, turnips, rutabagas and cold hardy radishes sufficiently from damage. To give your roots (especially radish) extra protection from our coldest temps, you can insulate them with 6” of dried leaves or straw in the fall. Keep in mind that while the leaves of some roots (like carrots) may die off during the winter, that does not mean the root is dead. In many cases the roots are even sweeter after a frost! So don’t forget to harvest your roots even after the leaves are gone.

How do I use row cover?

We like to make small “hoop houses” over our plants by simply pushing heavy gauge metal wires into the soil and then securing the row cover in the ground with metal staples. This keeps the cover off of the plant and often results in a higher quality harvest. This being said, frost blankets are designed to be able to sit directly on the plant without hoops as long as you leave some breathing room and fabric isn’t pulled tight against the plants.

Eat abundantly year round!

One great thing about growing veggies in Portland is that our location west of the Cascade Mountains has a relatively mild winter compared to many eastern counterparts at the same latitude. To the surprise of many, we really can eat a nice diversity of food from our gardens year-round here. If you are someone who wants to eat from your garden all year but has had mixed results, knowing these season extension tips will prove to be a great tool to have in your tool belt.

Happy Growing!

Preparing Your Winter Garden: Straw Mulch vs Cover Crop

By Pritha Golden Steele

Autumn in the Pacific Northwest is the time of year to start preparing gardens for the cold wet winter months. During the late summer and early fall we plant our gardens with veggies that can be enjoyed all winter (for recommendations see our previous post, Top Ten Winter Vegetables For Your Home Garden.) After removing summer crops it is usually too late to plant more veggies, so what do you do with all that exposed soil? Ecological growers always say not to leave soil bare. But why is this, and what should you do in your garden?

Cover your soil

straw mulch supports a healthy soil ecosystem

Why not leave bare soil for the winter?

The cornerstone of happy plants in an organic system is healthy soil. As such, we take great care to tend to the health of our soil and its biology. Macro and microorganisms are critical contributors to healthy soil and one of the things they need to thrive is air. When soil is left bare for the winter it compacts with the rain and loses important air pockets. On the other hand, the presence of roots or mulch prevents soil compaction, preserving needed air pockets and healthy biological life through the winter. If you are someone who likes to see the evidence for themselves, mulch or cover crop one half of a garden bed, leave the other half bare and compare the results come spring. You will see for yourself that the difference is night and day!

Dry mulch vs cover crop:

Cover crop (sometimes referred to as a living mulch or ‘green manure’) is a plant grown to improve soil health. If a cover crop is planted in the fall, the roots prevent soil compaction during the winter. When these plants are chopped and integrated into the soil before they get brown and woody, they feed microbes and deposit important nutrients into garden soil. Some cover crops even capture precious nitrogen from the atmosphere and transfer it into the soil, a process is known as fixing nitrogen.

Dry Mulch is a layer of dry plant material that is added to the top of soil to protect it. During the winter months dry mulch reduces soil compaction and increases soil temperature leaving a more habitable environment for a thriving living soil.

Why we choose dry mulch for small spaces:

Depending on the goals you have for your garden, you may find that mulch, cover crop or some combination of the two are the best match for you. Because we aim to get the highest production possible out of small spaces, we often start planting our gardens at the beginning of March or even the end of February. The benefit of a dry mulch is that when you are ready, you can simply remove it and start preparing the soil for planting. Cover crops need to be chopped and integrated into the soil (which can be quite labor intensive) and break down completely before planting. This process takes anywhere from a couple of weeks to a couple of months and can significantly delay the beginning of the garden season. In short, dry mulch has many of the advantages that come with planting a cover crop without the wait time.

Why Straw?

We love using straw because it is easy to source and apply. As well, its criss-cross structure allows for garlic leaves to easily pop through as it grows. Remember, if you choose to mulch your garden with straw it is not interchangeable with hay. Hay has many more seeds, and can create much more work when removing in the spring!

Hopefully this helps you decide what care is right for your winter garden. To healthy soil and happy plants!

Planting Parsley, Cilantro, and Dill for a Fall Harvest

By Ian Wilson

There’s nothing like the freshness and sparkle that a handful of home grown herbs can add to a meal. And while most people resign themselves to a fall and winter of stews and roasts, abandoning hope of all things fresh until spring, they don’t realize that your winter table can, in fact, be garnished with a little hint of Summer! And a few beloved annual herbs planted late in the season can make all the difference.

September is the perfect time for planting annual herbs that will mature and be harvestable through the Fall and into Winter

September is the last possible planting window for fall and winter vegetables here in the Pacific Northwest. And while hardy greens (kale, cabbage, chard…) and root vegetables (carrots, beets, parsnips…) take center stage, it turns out that a trio of annual herbs: parsley, cilantro, and dill are perfectly suited for the cool wet weather ahead.

Most herbs are ‘perennial’ meaning that they live for multiple years and keep coming back. This includes rosemary, sage, oregano, thyme, mint, and marjoram. ‘Annual’ herbs complete their life cycle in less than one year and hence, need to be planted annually.

Parsley cold tolerance

Parsley is extremely winter hardy and can tolerate temperatures down to 10º without being damaged

Parsley, cilantro, and dill constitute most of the annual herbs and while they can tolerate warmer summer temperatures, they are most happy in cool weather and thrive in all of the dank dreariness of an Oregon fall! Even better, each of these herbs has at least some degree of frost tolerance meaning they can survive temperatures below 32º. Mature dill and cilantro can both tolerate a light frost, while parsley can tolerate temperatures as low as 10º!

Another benefit of fall harvested herbs is a long “harvest window.” Cilantro and dill in particular are very quick to ‘bolt’ during the warm summer months, but cooler shorter days allow these plants to mature more slowly and take the pressure off of you to get them out of the garden before they flower!

Cilantro, which is quick to ‘bolt’ during warm summer temperatures, has a much longer ‘harvest window’ when planted in late summer for a Fall crop.

In September, with days getting shorter and summer temperatures moderating, planting from STARTS (not from seeds) and planting BEFORE the Fall Equinox is the safest way to ensure that plants reach maturity before vegetative growth slows significantly in October.

Like most vegetables and herbs, cilantro, dill, and parsley prefer full sun, and fertile well-drained soil. Beyond these requirements, these herbs are easy to grow! If you have a spot in your garden that checks those boxes, the only thing left to do is put some plants in the ground. Get right to it before Fall fully sets in and your won’t be disappointed.

5 Tips for Late Season Tomato Care

By Ian Wilson

We are in the home stretch for Summer vegetables like Tomatoes! If you’ve played your cards right, by now your tomatoes are an architectural feature in your garden. They have put on voluminous growth since a late Spring planting, they have flowered, been pollinated, and heavy fruits are beginning to ripen on the vine. You have supported them, pruned them, prayed over them, and it all looks like it just might pay off! So your work is done, right?

…Well, not exactly. The quality of your harvest will very much depend on how you care for your tomatoes during this final important stretch of summer!

Here are 5 tips to maximize the quantity and quality of your tomato harvest:

• Fertilize as needed during flowering and early fruit set

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and may require more fertilizing than many other vegetables that aren’t in the ground for so long. If you see any signs of low fertility, especially stunted growth or yellowing leaves, apply an all purpose organic fertilizer and water thoroughly into the root zone. Fertilizer is best applied during flower set and early fruiting and will be less effective once you have begun harvesting tomatoes.

• Reduce irrigation to your tomatoes once fruits begin to ripen

Tomatoes are extremely deep rooted and are very efficient and scavenging water lower in the soil. Mature tomatoes (as long as their containers are large enough) will benefit greatly from reducing the frequency and volume of watering by as much as 50% once fruits begin to ripen. This reduction serves two purposes. First it induces a mild stress response in the plant encouraging it to put less energy into vegetation (leafy green growth) and more energy into making flowers and ripening the fruit that it has already developed. Second, it concentrates the sugars and flavors in the ripening fruits leading to much more tomatoes! This is the single most important late season tip for growing the most flavorful tomatoes! As long as you don’t see signs of wilting or water stress, you are on the right track!

Tomato Fertilizing

Reducing irrigation to your tomato plants in late Summer concentrates flavors and sugars in your fruit and leads to a superior harvest Photo Credit: Shawn Linehan

• Avoid overhead watering to prevent fungal disease

Tomatoes are very prone to certain fungal diseases, and minimizing water contact with the leaves is extremely important in preventing these diseases! If possible, use drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation. And if you are watering by hand be very careful to avoid getting water on the leaves. Watering in the morning instead of the evening can also be very helpful in allowing most of the moisture to be taken up by the plants during the day and minimize evaporation and humidity during cooler night time temperatures when fungal diseases are more likely to spread.

• Continue to prune for air flow and sunlight

Proper pruning does two essential things: It allows appropriate air flow within and between your plants to prevent infection and spread of harmful fungal diseases, and it allows sunlight to penetrate the canopy and ripen your fruits! Prune out any leaves or branches that are hanging down and making contact with the soil. Also prune out any branches that have escaped their cage or support. If you were late in planting, or if your tomatoes are slow to fruit, head back the tallest branches on the plant. These cuts will induce a stress response and hasten the ripening of immature fruits.

Taking steps to prevent fungal disease in your tomato plants will ensure an abundant harvest. Proper air flow, plant spacing, appropriate irrigation, and proactive organic spraying will all help minimize the risk of fungal infection.

• Proactively spray an organic fungicide to prevent fungal disease

Spraying an organic listed anti-fungal like Actinovate or Bonide Copper Fungicide can help prevent infection by Late Blight, which can be crippling to tomatoes. Once Late Blight infects a tomato plant, it can be nearly impossible to eradicate, so preventive spraying is the best approach. Proper plant spacing, air flow, and appropriate irrigation are still the most effective preventive measures, but proactive spraying can help too!

*Caution: Even organic listed fungal sprays can be irritants and should be used only as explicitly directed.

How To Successfully Grow Cilantro

By Pritha Golden Steele

While many of us associate cilantro with tomatoes, tomatilllos and hot chili peppers, this beloved herb does not like the heat like those other plants do. That means it is easier to grow cilantro in the spring and the fall than it is in the summer (when peppers and tomatoes are ripe). That being said, growing the beautiful cilantro you want from your garden is not out of reach!

Start VS Seed

As a general rule, cilantro does best when grown by seed. One exception is at the very beginning of the season in late February or early March when it is quite cold. At this time, planting cilantro starts will give you an earlier harvest than you would otherwise get. But from April onward, we recommend planting cilantro by seed. Cilantro is very sensitive to heat spikes, being in a pot too long, and transplant shock. These things can all trigger cilantro to bolt (or shoot up a flower stock) at which point the leaves start to drop in quality. Planting by seed reduces bolting in cilantro, and because it matures so quickly, you don’t have to wait long before you get a harvest!

Summer Cilantro: Because cilantro is prone to bolting quickly, the trick to having consistent cilantro from your garden (especially in the hotter months) is to plant it regularly and harvest early (commonly called “succession planting”). The good news, is that a small space can often provide you with lots of cilantro for you kitchen. Try planting a foot or two of densely planted cilantro once a month to start. You can always make your plantings bigger or smaller based on how much you eat. As well, planting in a location with afternoon shade would be a great spot to plant you summer cilantro, as it will delay the bolting process. Shade can come from something that already exists like a tree or fence, or you can creating it. Avoid planting in the hottest times of summer.

Slow bolt varieties:

If you are growing cilantro for the leaves, you will do best to grow “slow bolt” cilantro varieties. We have had success with ‘Calypso’ and ‘Cruiser.’ That being said, if you let your cilantro mature in your garden, the flowers are excellent for pollinators and the coriander seed is also delicious when used in the kitchen! If you let coriander dry on the plant until it is brown before harvest, it will store well for the winter. When you harvest coriander while still green, its flavor is a mix between fresh cilantro and dried coriander. Delicious!

Top 10 Pepper Varieties to Grow in Pacific Northwest Gardens

By Pritha Golden Steele

One thing to know about peppers is that they truly love the heat! While we don’t have the hottest climate in the Pacific Northwest, we can still grow beautiful peppers here. It simply takes more care to get a productive pepper crop in this climate than a warmer southern climate.

One way we like to improve our success with peppers is by being selective about our pepper selections and choosing varieties that are early to mature. It is also very important to plant peppers at the right time to maximize their growing season. Here in Portland, Oregon we aim to plant peppers around June 1st when night time lows are consistently 50º and above.

PEPPERS VARIETIES WE LOVE

Below is a list of 10 peppers varieties that have given us excellent results. Additionally, it can be helpful to know that sunlight and heat are what cause peppers to ripen and either get spicy or sweet. So as a general rule, smaller peppers will typically sweeten up or spice up earlier than lager ones. As well, peppers that are harvested green will often be ready earlier than peppers that we harvest red, orange or yellow.

Carmen

productive, great flavor

Carmen – This red Italian pepper is sweet and very productive. It can be hard to get a nice bell pepper crop in our climate, so Carmen is a great replacement. It ripens more easily than a bell pepper and it can be used the same way culinarily.

Jimmy Nardello – This super sweet frying pepper is a favorite of chefs and gardeners alike. The fruit is long and thin-walled making it so you can throw whole peppers into a pan, blister the skin and serve them as a mouthwatering appetizer or a side dish.

Baby Bell Peppers – Baby bell peppers ripen early because of their small size, and they are a big hit with kids. Excellent for a little snack, these peppers are a fun and delicious addition to the garden.

Glow – If you want to grow a standard size bell pepper, this variety is one of the earlier ripening bells, which means you can still get a nice ripe fruit even in our climate. As well, they are fun to grow for their beautiful orange color.

Padron

earliest pepper, a little kick, absolutely delicious

Padron or Shishito – These small frying peppers are some of the earliest peppers we get out of the garden and some of the most delicious. Harvest peppers green when they are about 2”-3” long. Flash fry them in oil, generously salt and eat them whole. If you like some spice in your food, about 1 in 10 Padron peppers have some kick. If you are not a fan of spice, Shishito are milder and would be a great choice.

For more info on Padron Peppers check out this classic blog post dedicated exclusively to these favorites!

Joe Parker Anaheim Chili – These NuMex type peppers have a mild spice to them and are excellent for roasting, smoking, stuffing and canning. As a pepper that you typically harvest green, it is anther variety the is ready earlier in the season. This variety is very productive and reliable.

Tiburon Poblano – Tiburon Poblano produces beautiful large dark blue/green peppers with excellent flavor and a little bit of kick. They are typically harvested green but they will eventually turn a deep red color, slowly getting spicier the longer they hang on the vine. The plants can get tall and produce a nice heavy crop.

Habanada

all the flavor without the heat

Habanada – This pepper is packed with complex, fruity Habanero flavor but without the heat. These peppers are so flavorful that it only takes a couple peppers to completely transform a dish or salsa.

Lipstick – If you are looking for an earlier maturing sweet pepper, then lipstick is an excellent choice. This tapered fruit grows to be about 4” long, has a nice thick wall, and super sweet flavor.

Early Jalapeño – Hot peppers really benefit from the heat to get their spice. With our limited Summer in the pacific northwest, Jalapeños are an excellent choice for growing. They are quicker to mature than many other peppers and produce an abundance of fruits on a single plant!

How to Grow Early Spring Lettuce in Your Vegetable Garden

By Pritha Golden Steele

When we start our first lettuce plantings at the end of February and beginning of March, I often get the question “Isn’t it too early to be planting lettuce?” Lettuces are cold sensitive and in our climate, and late winter is marked with frosty nights. Fortunately, if you follow a few simple practices, you can successfully grow early season lettuce, and start eating fresh salads from your garden come early spring.

Three Tips For Success

Cover your lettuces with frost blanket:

Just like you and me, plants can benefit from a blanket in cold temperatures. You can source frost blanket from various sellers. Farm supply companies like Territorial Seed Company provide options for online ordering and local shops such as Concentrates or Portland Nursery carry a selection of different options in house.

Plant lettuce starts instead of seeds:

Early in the season, seeds are slower to germinate and can struggle with the colder temperatures. By using plant starts you begin with mature plants that will be more resistant to frost damage than a seedling.

Select lettuce varieties that are cold hardy:
Romaine lettuce is generally one of the hardier lettuce types in cold weather and ‘Winter Density’ Romaine is especially so. We also love it for it’s incredibly tender and delicious leaves. For some variety, Tango green lettuce and Buckley red lettuce are also examples of cold tolerant lettuce varieties.

Good luck and happy growing!

The Ten Best Vegetable Varieties for Direct Seeding in your Home Garden


Growing vegetables from seeds, or “direct seeding,” in your garden is one of the best things about growing food at home! It can be a challenge to find varieties that are easy to grow, well adapted for your garden, and delicious. So save yourself the trouble and get your hands on some tried and true varieties that we love!

We have grown hundreds of varieties over many years farming and gardening here in the pacific northwest. We have distilled that list down to our all-time top ten vegetable varieties for growing at home.

So don’t waste another minute! Get your hands on some these favorite varieties and be ready for Spring!

‘Super Sugar Snap’ Peas

Peas are usually the very first vegetables that we plant in the gardens that we tend.  And you won’t find a more reliable or delicious sugar snap pea variety than ‘Super Sugar Snap.’  Peas can germinate in cold soils as early as February.  ‘Super Sugar Snap’ makes vigorous and wildly productive vines that will need to be supported by a trellis.  They fruit for many weeks, yielding incredible harvests of large sweet succulent pods.  A consistent favorite with the kiddos!

Order ‘Super Sugar Snap’ Peas

‘Esmee’ Arugula

While many people grow arugula from starts, we have found that direct seeded arugula yields a higher quality crop with a longer ‘harvest window’.  Arugula is very heat sensitive and is best grown in the Spring and Fall.  We love ‘Esmee’ for its mild flavor and frilly leaves.  Beautiful and delicious, we recommend sowing ‘Esmee’ from seed every 2-3 weeks from early March through late April for a Spring harvest and then again from mid-August through the end of September for a Fall harvest.

Order ‘Esmee’ Arugula

‘Calypso’ Cilantro

So often I hear home gardeners say “I just can’t grow cilantro.  It always bolts!”  The truth is cilantro is extremely heat sensitive and really shouldn’t be grown from starts.  Furthermore, it has a short harvest window so even in the best conditions it won’t last forever.  Calypso is quite literally the only cilantro variety that we grow precisely because it is so slow to bolt!  We plant ‘successions’ of cilantro from seed 1x/month from March all the way through September!  Growing from seed with multiple plantings and using this slow to bolt variety will have you flush with cilantro nearly year round!

Order ‘Calypso’ Cilantro

‘Calypso’ is the most heat tolerant and slowest bolting cilantro we have ever come across. It’s the only one we grow!

‘Yaya’ Carrots

Carrots are challenging to grow for many gardeners.  Like most root vegetables, they really must be grown from seeds (not from starts).  Furthermore, they are very slow to germinate and can take up to 3 weeks to sprout!  Add to this the tiny seeds, and you have all the trappings of a challenging veggie.  But the payoff is huge with incredible yields in small spaces.  We love ‘Yaya’ for it’s exceptional flavor and early maturation.  

Another pro tip is to purchase “pelleted” seeds which make tiny seeds easier to handle and help with reliable sprouting.  We direct sow carrots every 4-6 weeks from early April through the beginning of August and harvest carrots from the garden for 9 months out of the year!

Order ‘Yaya’ Carrots

‘French Breakfast’ Radishes

Radishes are one of the easiest root vegetables to grow in the Spring because of reliable germination and a very quick maturation.  ‘French Breakfast’ is an ever popular variety with an excellent mild flavor and stunning two toned red and white color.  They are so called because in France they are commonly sliced thin and eaten raw on a piece of (heavily buttered) toast.  It is an easily acquired taste, I promise!  We sow ‘French Breakfast’ radishes from early March through the end of April.

Order ‘French Breakfast’ Radishes

‘Lofty’ Lettuce Mix

Lettuce grows great from starts, but direct seeding is really the best way to harvest baby greens.  Furthermore many seed companies have formulated mixes of different lettuce varieties so you can harvest a salad of mixed baby greens from one sowing!  We love many of the mixes from Oregon’s own Territorial Seed Company, and our favorite right now is the ‘Lofty Mix’ which is all organic and features deeply textured leaves for a salad that wants to jump out of the bowl.  We sow lettuce mixes from Spring through Fall, but Summer is hard on lettuces, so your best windows for direct sowing will be March-May and August-September.

Order ‘Lofty Salad Mix’

‘Provider’ Bush Beans

Most beans are easily (and best) grown from seeds.  Our favorite classic green bean is ‘Provider.’  It has a bush habit and produces heavy yields of delicious and sizable 6” pods.  We sow beans during the warmer months of the year, typically 1x/month from mid-May through mid-July for nearly 3 months of continuous harvest in late Summer!

Order ‘Provider’ Bush Beans

Green Beans always grow best when direct sown in the garden. ‘Provider’ is our favorite easy-to-grow bush bean with vigorous growth and abundant harvest.

‘Hakurei’ Turnips

I never thought I liked turnips until years ago when a fellow farmer had me take a chomp out of a raw ‘Hakurei’ turnip harvested fresh from the field.  I didn’t even mind the sand in my teeth because the sweetness was so surprising and unique.  Since then I have grown ‘Hakurei’ every year.  These turnips are quick to grow and gorgeous with bone white flesh and a succulence that is uncommon in other turnips.  Like radishes, turnips are very heat intolerant so we seed ‘Hakurei’ during the cooler Spring months from early March through the end of April.

Order ‘Hakurei’ Turnips

‘Red Ace’ Beets

Beets can be challenging to grow, but of all of the beets that we have trialed, we keep returning to ‘Red Ace,’ a classic red beet with excellent flavor and exceptional sweetness when grown in the Winter.  Beets can be finicky requiring high fertility, and consistent water, and are also heat sensitive so we recommend sowing them Spring and Fall.  The best target dates for beet sowings are early April (for an early Summer harvest) and mid-July (for a Fall and Winter harvest).  Like carrots, we recommend “pelleted seeds” to help with reliable germination.

Order ‘Red Ace’ Beets

Beets are difficult to grow, but ‘Red Ace’ has been the most reliable producer in our gardens. Highly recommended!!

‘Renegade’ Spinach

Like most of the tender leafy greens, Spinach grows very well when direct sown.  There are so many good options when it comes to spinach.  We love Renegade for its reliable germination, quick Spring growth, and disease resistance.  It is smooth leaved, succulent, and great for Spring or Fall plantings.  We so ‘Renegage’ Spinach from early March through the beginning of May and then again in late August-early October for a Fall/Winter harvest.

Order ‘Renegade’ Spinach

PEG Fall Photo Journal 2021

What a year! Interest in growing edible gardens has continued to blossom in 2021 and we have had so much fun supporting this exciting growth. The vegetable gardens are finally winding down and we are taking a look back at all that has happened in 2021. Come along for the ride!


Can you see the future here?

Rainbow Chard is a vegetable that can produce for many months from a single planting

Spring is salad season! And these abundant greens are what we hope to see in a Spring garden.

Emory has been one of our most dedicated Mentorship clients in 2021.  She brings joy, curiosity, and enthusiasm to every garden visit.  Here she is harvesting some of the first Japanese Eggplants of the year!

Emory has been one of our most dedicated Mentorship clients in 2021. She brings joy, curiosity, and enthusiasm to every garden visit. Here she is harvesting some of the first Japanese Eggplants of the year!

‘Jimmy Nardello’ Peppers, ‘Glow’ Peppers, and ‘Orient Express’ Eggplant

‘Jimmy Nardello’ Peppers, ‘Glow’ Peppers, and ‘Orient Express’ Eggplant

There’s no hiding that smile : )

There’s no hiding that smile : )

‘Genovese’ Basil

‘Genovese’ Basil

Beautiful ‘Chioggia’ Beets.

Beautiful ‘Chioggia’ Beets.

Stunning on the inside too!

Stunning on the inside too!

2021 Fall Photo Journal  - 51.jpeg
A ma

Before…

…and After! A major garden build out in Boring, Oregon. Nothing boring about this garden though : )

…and After! A major garden build out in Boring, Oregon. Nothing boring about this garden though : )

We have partnered with one of our residential garden clients on a new publicly accessible PEG Demonstration Garden at the intersection of N Willis Blvd and N. Newman Ave.  This garden will highlight the work that we do building and maintaining organic vegetable gardens.  In 2022 we will be teaching a series of sliding scale classes on organic vegetable gardening techniques.  Come on by any time and check out the garden!

We have partnered with one of our residential garden clients on a new publicly accessible PEG Demonstration Garden at the intersection of N Willis Blvd and N. Newman Ave. This garden will highlight the work that we do building and maintaining organic vegetable gardens. In 2022 we will be teaching a series of sliding scale classes on organic vegetable gardening techniques. Come on by any time and check out the garden!

We hired an AMAZING Leader of our Home Garden Care program this year.  Pritha Golden brings years of organic farming/gardening experience and has been a huge addition to the team.  Thanks Preets!

We hired an AMAZING Leader of our Home Garden Care program this year. Pritha Golden brings years of organic farming/gardening experience and has been a huge addition to the team. Thanks Preets!

A new and much larger wood shop space in inner SE Portland has allowed us to increase our efficiency in providing custom raised garden bed installations to our residential clients.

Jack preparing some beautiful cedar for installation in the shop

We love when a client has a clear vision and we can help turn it into a reality.  That’s the story of this garden!  A seating area will feature in the central space beyond these cedar garden beds.

We love when a client has a clear vision and we can help turn it into a reality. That’s the story of this garden! A seating area will feature in the central space beyond these cedar garden beds.

A garden build from start to finish:

Edible Garden Build 1
Edible Garden Build 2
2021 Fall Photo Journal  - 8.jpeg
This year we have radically increased our use of sustainably harvested Juniper as a material in building our raised garden beds!  Juniper is even longer lasting than traditional Cedar and easier on the earth.

This year we have radically increased our use of sustainably harvested Juniper as a material in building our raised garden beds! Juniper is even longer lasting than traditional Cedar and easier on the earth.

We love Japanese and other asian eggplants because they mature 2-3 weeks earlier than traditional Italian eggplants but have the same fantastic flavor. This variety is called “Orient Express”.

Peppers!!!  Clockswise from top left: Poblano ‘Tiburon,’ ‘Jimmy Nardellos,’ ‘Conchos’ Jalapeno, and ‘Shishito’

Peppers!!! Clockswise from top left: Poblano ‘Tiburon,’ ‘Jimmy Nardellos,’ ‘Conchos’ Jalapeno, and ‘Shishito’

A rare sighting of the Western Speckled Dhalia Frog

A rare sighting of the Western Speckled Dhalia Frog

2021 Fall Photo Journal  - 26.jpeg
2021 Fall Photo Journal  - 23.jpeg
Slow-bolt ‘Calypso’ Cilantro.  …A long time fave.

Slow-bolt ‘Calypso’ Cilantro. …A long time fave.

This year we helped one of our residential clients grow hot weather crops inside this beautiful greenhouse from Sturdi-Built Greenhouses.

This year we helped one of our residential clients grow hot weather crops inside this beautiful greenhouse from Sturdi-Built Greenhouses.

We are now offering 2 bin Juniper Compost Systems for home scale compost production!  Removable slates allow for easy access and turning.

We are now offering 2 bin Juniper Compost Systems for home scale compost production! Removable slates allow for easy access and turning.

A 2 bin system allows one compost pile to fully mature, while another is being built.  Using fully finished compost is important in optimizing plant health in a vegetable garden.

A 2 bin system allows one compost pile to fully mature, while another is being built. Using fully finished compost is important in optimizing plant health in a vegetable garden.

2021 Fall Photo Journal  - 30.jpeg

Thanks so much for staying connected with PEG!!!

We want to hear from YOU. Send us some favorite photos of YOUR gardens for inclusion in future blog posts and social media. Enjoy this seasonal shift and stay in touch!

Happy Growing, Ian and the PEG team

Send photo submissions to info@portlandediblegardens.com

PEG Fall Photo Journal 2020

Happy December!

Well, It has been quite a year, to say the least. With all of the uncertainty that has come with Covid, and with so many people spending more time at home, interest in edible gardening is at an all time high. This has meant that we have been busier than ever buzzing around and helping people with growing their own food. It has been a lot of fun and there is a lot to report! We hope you enjoy this visual tour of what we have been up to these past few months.

We love garden expansions! Two new beds doubled the growing space for this returning client.

Continuing to care for the stunning rooftop vegetable garden

at the Heartline Apartments in the Pearl District

Hard to beat this view, for an urban garden

Crushed rock and rigid steel edging give this vegetable garden a modern look. A central seating area will provide a space for garden to table dinners in the years to come.

We are continuing to offer sustainably harvested Juniper raised garden beds!

We are continuing to offer sustainably harvested Juniper raised garden beds!

These beds are extremely long lasting and age beautifully

Spring faves: ‘French Breakfast’ radishes and ‘Hakurei’ turnips

Picturesque beet greens

…and a honkin’ purple potato

We completed our biggest project ever this year!

Lots of preparations at this beautiful site in Wilsonville

Soil conveyor trucks are magical inventions

Preparing materials in this greenhouse surrounded by the client’s impressive agave collection

Raised beds nearly complete and ready to fill

The finished product: (16) 4’x16’ garden beds. This client now has over 1000 square feet of space for vegetable production. And now the real fun begins!

Our top notch install crew building a compost system for our friends at Black Futures Farm

Finished 3 Bin Juniper Compost System

Late July: What to plant NOW in your home garden

A Golden Opportunity

Summer is in full swing! Spring greens have wilted away in the heat, tomatoes are starting to ripen on the vines, zucchini's broad canopy is attempting a coup of the rest of the garden, and a fruitful season is upon us.

It can be easy, in the midst of such abundant harvests, to forget about the opportunities for planting at this moment. And yet there are many opportunities for planting that shouldn’t be missed, now and in the weeks to come.

Planting cool season veggies now, will yield an abundance in the Fall and Winter months!

Late July-Early August is actually a critical window for planting many vegetables that will mature in the Fall and Winter months ahead. Many home gardeners attempt to plant “Fall Vegetables” in the Fall, which turns out to be a solid 2-3 months too late for growing successful cool season crops. These vegetables, while they love to mature in the cool months ahead, need the long hot days of late Summer to get started on their journey. With a good start in the heat of late Summer, they will cruise into their maturity in September and on into the Fall.

What to plant NOW in your home vegetable garden:

Carrots can be planted at many times throughout the year. Now is the perfect time for planting for a Fall/Winter harvest.

Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Kohlrabi: Plant these from starts now for a one time Fall harvest. The same veggies planted in mid August will be harvestable in the winter as a succession planting.

Carrots, Beets, Turnips, and Rutabagas: These roots are at their absolute peak sweetness when harvested in the dead of winter. They take a long time to mature (especially beets and carrots) and should be planted ASAP from seeds for an abundant winter harvest.

Kale, Collard Greens, and Chard: This trio of hardy greens will provide a continuous harvest for many months in the Fall and Winter when planted now from starts. Spraying weekly with organic “Bt” (Bacillus thuringiensis) can help protect kale and collards from cabbage moths.

Dill, Cilantro, and Parsley: These annual herbs are great options for late Summer. Dill and cilantro are easily grown from seeds (or starts), but have a shorter “harvest window” and will be ready in late Summer. Parsley planted from starts will be harvestable all through the winter!

Lettuce: A workhorse in the garden and the kitchen, lettuce can be planted in many seasons. Plant every 2-3 weeks until early September to have a continuous harvest from late Summer until deep into the Fall! Choose heat tolerant or “bolt resistant” varieties for planting in July and August.

Scallions and Leeks: These veggies should be planted from starts ASAP! Scallions will mature in late Summer, and Leeks will mature for a Winter harvest.


So don’t delay! Seize the day and get some veggies in the ground to enjoy an abundant Fall and Winter in the months ahead. And of course, if you need a little assistance in making it happen Contact Us and we will be happy to help!

Happy Growing, Ian Wilson

Owner and Founder, Portland Edible Gardens





Where to Buy Seeds, Vegetable Starts, and Soil Amendments in Portland During Covid-19

Nurseries have not been spared from major disruption during the Covid-19 Pandemic.  Lots of people have had difficulty accessing plants, seeds, and supplies.  So we wanted to take a moment to compile some local resources for home gardeners looking for help!

***Hours and protocols are subject to change. Make sure to check websites or give a call before making a trip***

Local Resources for Seeds/Starts during Covid-19:

Portland Nursery (5050 SE Stark St, and 9000 SE Division St., walk-in service, 9-4 daily)

The nursery with the largest inventory of seeds and starts, and all the tools, amendments, supplies that you could need is now open to the public again.  Open for walk-in service but social distancing and crowd control protocols are in place so expect a wait.

Garden Fever (3433 NE 24th Ave, e-mail orders only, Wed-Sun 10-5)

This friendly and well curated NE Portland Nursery caters to home vegetable gardeners and also has a wide selection of seeds and starts.  They are only taking e-mail orders and are open Wednesday-Sunday 10-5.  Order your supplies on their website.

Livingscape Nursery (3926 N Vancouver Ave, walk-in service, 10-6 Daily, closed Mondays)

This tiny nursery close-in in NE Portland packs a punch. They have a good size veggie inventory considering their tiny footprint. They also have a helpful online list of inventory for their vegetable starts if you prefer to make an e-mail order. They are open for walk-in service.

Portland Nursery is open again, operating with strict social distancing protocols and walk-in service

Portland Nursery is open again, operating with strict social distancing protocols and walk-in service

Garden Fever, on NE Fremont is processing e-mail orders for all of your vegetable garden needs

Garden Fever, on NE Fremont is processing e-mail orders for all of your vegetable garden needs

Livingscape Nursery on N. Williams is still operating with walk-in service, or e-mail orders for pick-up

Livingscape Nursery on N. Williams is still operating with walk-in service, or e-mail orders for pick-up

Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply (3454 SE Powell Blvd., email orders only, 10-6 daily)

This beloved SE Portland nursery/feed store has the most extensive inventory of amendments, composts, fertilizers, and tools in town.  They also have a great selection of seeds and starts. They are also operating with e-mail orders only and are prioritizing orders for feed or animal related products. 

Cornell Farms (8212 SW Barnes Rd.  walk-in service, 9-5 daily)

A wonderful sprawling nursery in SW Portland close to downtown and also accessible from westside suburbs.  Great selection of vegetable starts, seeds, fruit trees, berries, etc… Open for walk-in service but limiting customers, so expect to wait.

Pomarius Nursery (1920 NW 18th Ave, by appointment only)

A totally enchanting nursery in NW Portland specializing in ornamental and perennial plants, but with a small selection of annual vegetables and herbs. Open by appointment only. Call ahead.

Marbott’s Nursery (1808 NE Columbia Blvd., Thurs.-Sun. for Walk-in service, email orders too!)

A small 3rd generation family-owned nursery in North Portland founded in 1930! Small collection of vegetable starts, many grown right on site. Open for walk-in service Thurs.-Sun..

Birds and Bee’s Nursery (3327 SE 50th Ave, Walk-in Service Noon-4pm daily)

A small, totally delightful, and well curated Nursery in SE Portland with organic vegetable starts. Open daily for walk-in service 12-4pm.

The Gardener’s Choice (14240 SW Pacific Hwy, Wed-Sun 9-5, walk-in service)

A small, family owned nursery in Tigard keeps a fairly well stocked veggie supply. Open for walk-in service.

New Seasons Market (many locations, walk-in service, 8-9 Daily)

Many of us get our precious groceries here, and if you are suiting up for a grocery run, plan ahead and get some veggie starts as well!  With walk-in service, most locations keep a small supply of veggie starts well stocked, so this has actually been a great resource lately.

Fred Meyer (many locations, walk-in service, 7-10 daily)

Some of the larger locations also have an attached nursery with limited supplies of vegetable starts.  If you are looking for an easy walk-in shopping experience, try one of these nurseries.

Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply on SE Powell is taking e-mail orders but prioritizing animal related inquiries.

Naomi’s Organic Farm Supply on SE Powell is taking e-mail orders but prioritizing animal related inquiries.

Cornell Farms on SW Barnes Rd. is still open for walk-in service and also taking phone orders

Cornell Farms on SW Barnes Rd. is still open for walk-in service and also taking phone orders

Al’s Garden Center (Woodburn, Gresham, Sherwood, Wilsonville, email orders only, delivery available, 9-5 daily)

A large garden center supporting suburban Portland locations.  They are only accepting e-mail orders, but will deliver for free within 10 miles of stores with order of $75 or more.  No organic seeds or starts.

Wilco Farm Stores (Tigard, Canby, Oregon City, Vancouver, walk-in service, 8-6 daily)

Feed Store with attached nursery.  Business as usual and walk-in service.  Limited supply of vegetables.  No organic seeds or starts

Dennis’ Seven Dees (Cedar Hills, Bridgeport Vilage, Lake Oswego, Phone orders, curbside pickup/delivery, 9-5 daily)

This large nursery with several suburban locations is open for phone orders.  Limited availability of organics and variable quality of vegetable starts, but who could snub delivery service?

Home Depot (Many Locations, walk-in service, open daily 6am-6pm)

No organics and low quality seeds and starts.  But with walk-in service, a good last chance option.

Solace is a garden

Dear Friends,

These days, as we all find our way forward through this difficult time, I have been struck by the sense that we are at the same time both more intimately connected and more isolated than ever before.  As we retreat to our homes and our families (if we are so lucky) and face the anxiety, fear, and uncertainty that Coronavirus has brought to all of humanity, we suffer together.  No one, it seems, is spared from the reach of this strange and extraordinary virus.

It can be difficult to find the silver lining in all of the suffering and difficulty that these last few weeks and months have unleashed across the world, and yet every day I seem to unearth another small gift within it all.  My family’s vegetable garden has been an absolute treasure in this time, and I have been reminded yet again, why gardens are so important to me, and why I started Portland Edible Gardens in the first place.

As we have all scattered to our shelters and withdrawn from each other, donned precious fragile layers of protection on our harrowing trips to the grocery store, scrubbed our hands raw, held our breaths in passing, the rest of our living earth has breathed a collective sigh of relief.  Have you noticed? The cherry blossoms have continued to erupt in snowy bloom, the Easter tulips are more punctual and vivid than ever, the drone of weekday mornings has given way to bird song, and the trees stand tall and silent, affirming it all, again, and again, and again.

Radish Seed Sprouting

In our family’s garden we have seeded radishes and turnips, carrots, and sugar snap peas.  We have planted lettuce, arugula, spinach, and broccoli from nursery starts. This week we will plant Kale, Parsley, and 3 kinds of Onions.  Before planting, we removed the straw mulch that we had spread in the Fall to protect our soil and amended all of our raised garden beds with compost and organic fertilizer, worked it in to the soil with a digging fork, adding organic matter, nutrients, and loosening the soil, making way for roots to tunnel down.  We still have a beautiful crop of spinach and arugula that was seeded in the late Summer last year.  Our ‘hardneck’ garlic, planted from cloves in October, is now a beautiful deep green and as happy as ever.  We will harvest mature garlic bulbs in July. The days are stretching longer, the soil is warming. Just outside my window, hidden from view, our seeds are shedding their hard cold casings in the darkness and being born into tenderness.

And so the cycle continues.  We tend our vegetable garden, whatever the weather.  We plant seeds in times of abundance, and in times of scarcity.  Our garden’s gifts are too many to name and more generous than we could ever know. My 3 year old daughter, Avery, pleads to water our seeds each day, even though they and everything else are drenched in precious rain -- Life is eager, coursing, yearning, all around us, and through us. Even now. Even here.

2019 PEG Photo Journal!

Every Fall we take a look back at all that has happened over the last growing season, and every time I just can’t believe how much we packed in!

We hope you enjoy these images from 2019 and that you find inspiration from our work.


Emmanuelle’s Garden, in it’s prime.

A West Linn Kitchen Garden

Sugar Snap Pea Refuge

Sugar Snap Pea Refuge

Juniper Raised Garden Beds w/ perennial border. This border will be planted with herbs, berries, and plants for attracting beneficial insects.

Juniper Raised Garden Beds w/ perennial border. This border will be planted with herbs, berries, and plants for attracting beneficial insects.

Leafy greens planted in mid-August will yield for months and months into the Fall!

Leafy greens planted in mid-August will yield for months and months into the Fall!

Completed Juniper Raised Garden Bed Installation at PCC Cascade Campus

Completed Juniper Raised Garden Bed Installation at PCC Cascade Campus

Thinning Radishes

Thinning Radishes

See you in the Spring!

See you in the Spring!


Thanks so much for staying connected with Portland Edible Gardens! And of course, give us a call if you want some help in growing an abundance of veggies at home in the year to come.

Happy Growing!

- Ian Wilson, Owner, Portland Edible Gardens, LLC

Shakshuka!: A Favorite Recipe for the Season of Abundance

If your garden is anything at all like mine, then you find yourself in a familiar and lovely conundrum every September: What am I going to do with all of these tomatoes? And while you have canned and frozen and sauced your way through the abundance, you are still up to your ears in the harvest. In fact, sometimes I am so intent upon putting tomatoes up for the Winter that I forget to slow down and enjoy them in their freshest and most precious state.

Well whether you have a garden full, or a bowl full, here is a recipe to do your tomatoes justice. What’s more, as you will see, this recipe is suitable for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It’s that good, that versatile, and remarkably simple. Enjoy!

Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner, Shakshuka is a crowd pleaser, and the perfect place to celebrate an abundance of tomatoes

Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner, Shakshuka is a crowd pleaser, and the perfect place to celebrate an abundance of tomatoes

I first learned about Shakshuka, a middle eastern specialty, in Argentina of all places. During a year long ramble through South America, I met many Israelis along the way. They were incredibly passionate about food. And while they were mildly interested in asado, empanadas, and other local fare, their loyalty to Israeli cuisine was undeniable. Sometimes it seemed to me that their entire journeys through Latin America were carefully planned around the most reliable hummus spots. Shakshuka, though less well known than hummus, was the meal that really captured my heart and I am so happy to share it now with you.

Make shakshuka with any fresh tomatoes from your garden, but I prefer plum and roma types because of their lower water content

Make shakshuka with any fresh tomatoes from your garden, but I prefer plum and roma types because of their lower water content

Fresh tomatoes, high quality eggs, and a loaf of rustic bread are the essential ingredients in this Summer comfort, so a mild September day is the perfect time to make Shakshuka. And as I learned from many fellow travelers, this is a one pot meal that is meant to be leaned over, dipped into, and shared and savored together. Enjoy!


Shakshuka

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

  • 1/4 Cup Olive Oil

  • 5 Anaheim chiles or 3 Jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

  • 1 small Onion, chopped

  • 6 cloves Garlic, crushed and sliced

  • 1 tsp ground Cumin

  • 1 Tbsp Paprika

  • 3# Fresh Tomatoes (preferably plum or roma) halved or quartered

  • Salt, to taste

  • 6 Eggs

  • 1/2 cup Feta Cheese, crumbled

  • 1 Tbsp flat leaf Parsley, finely chopped

  • 1 loaf fresh Rustic Bread

This recipe is adapted from Smitten Kitchen (www.smittenkitchen.com)

Instructions:

  1. Heat oil in large skillet or crock pot over medium high heat. Add chiles and onion and cook, stirring occasionally until soft. About 6 minutes.

  2. Add garlic, cumin, and paprika, until garlic is soft. About 2 more minutes.

  3. Put tomatoes into a medium bowl and crush with your hands. Add crushed tomatoes and their liquid to skillet or dutch oven, reduce heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened. 15-30 minutes depending on moisture. Season sauce with salt.

  4. Crack eggs over sauce so that eggs are evenly distributed across sauce’s surface. Cover skillet or dutch oven and cook until yolks are just set, about 5 minutes. Using a spoon, baste the whites of the eggs with tomato mixture to ensure poaching.

  5. Sprinkle shakshuka with feta and parsley and serve with thick sliced toasted bread as your spoon!


Your Easy-As-Pie Tomato Planting Guide + Our Favorite Varieties!!!

Summer is nearly upon us, and that means it's time to plant those tomatoes!  There are few veggies that are more beloved for home gardeners than tomatoes, and though you might be tricked into thinking that growing your own is some act of garden magic or sorcery, it's not true!!!  Growing your own tomatoes can be simple and joyous, so why not join in the fun before the season gets away?

 
 

Just keep a few important things in mind and you will be well on your way to tomato heaven!

There are no substitutes for Sun, Soil, and Water.  90% of the success of your tomatoes (and your veggie garden in general) can be boiled down to Sun, Soil, and Water. If you have 6+ hours of daily sun, fertile well-drained soil, and you water your tomatoes regularly and appropriately, your tomatoes will go WILD!  I promise.

Plant early, but not too early.  Tomatoes take a long time to grow (80+ days!!!) and here in the Pacific Northwest our tomato growing season is shorter than more southern climates. For this reason, planting at the right time of year is extremely important! Plant your tomatoes too late in the year (after June 15th), and your tomatoes may not have enough time to mature and ripen fruit before the Fall.  But plant too early in the year (Before May 1st) and they will likely become stunted by cold night time temperatures. For optimal growth and a long harvest window, aim for planting in mid-May or when nighttime lows are consistently above 50º.

Plant from starts.  Because tomatoes take so long to grow, they need to be grown from vegetable starts or they won’t mature in time for a long harvest season.  Purchase healthy starts from local nurseries for planting.

Plant deeply.  Tomatoes (and other vegetables in the Solanum family) are “adventitious rooters” meaning they love to make roots.  If tomato stems are buried in the soil, they will be stimulated to produce roots instead of growing vegetatively. This is a good thing, as early in the season, when temperatures are cooler, it is more important that your tomato plants develop strong root systems than that they grow vegetatively. By planting your tomatoes extra deep, you can use this rooty habit of tomatoes to your advantage. Before planting, remove the bottom 2-3 branches and plant starts 2-3” below the soil surface to encourage stems to produce more roots.  Remember: More roots early in the season = more fruit late in the season!

Fertilize.  Tomatoes are heavy feeders and require more nutrients than many other vegetables in order to grow strong and produce an abundance of fruit. Before planting starts, mix 1/4-1/2 cup of organic vegetable fertilizer into each planting hole to give your tomatoes what they need to thrive. Many fertilizers that are specifically for tomatoes will have higher Phosphorous (P) levels to promote flowering and fruiting. Using special tomato fertilizer isn’t essential, but it can help!

Tomatoes need support.  ...No, not that kind. ….well, maybe… But anyhow, tomatoes can grow to be very tall (as tall as 6+ feet!) and within a few weeks after planting they aren’t able to support their own weight. Tomato cages are essential in supporting the weight of mature plants. If left unsupported tomatoes will grow close to the ground and be difficult to manage and mature fruit will rot. Give your tomatoes support from the very beginning and you will be rewarded!

Water Wisely. Tomatoes are highly prone to fungal diseases. For this reason, avoid watering the leaves of tomatoes and concentrate water on the ground at the base of the plant. Watering plants in the morning will also encourage evaporation during the day and limit moisture during evening hours when fungal diseases are most likely to spread. Once your tomatoes begin to produce ripe fruits, reduce watering significantly to promote concentrated flavors and sweetness and to prevent cracking of ripe fruit.

What Varieties of Tomatoes Should I Grow?

 
 

Many Gardeners’ opinions about tomato varieties are as deeply held as their political views, and while we are always trying out new varieties, we certainly have our favorites as well. But they aren’t secrets, and we love nothing more than sharing what we have learned from many years of growing!!!  

“So,” you ask, “If you could only grow three tomatoes, what would they be?”…

‘Sungold:’  I have tried a lot of different cherry tomato varieties, and if you ask me, nothing holds a candle to Sungold.  Early to mature and vigorous in growth, Sungold often outgrows it’s tomato cage in my garden. These incredibly productive, disease resistant plants produce abundant deep orange cherry tomatoes with exceptional sweetness and firmness.  They are like candy. ...Just ask the kids.

‘Stupice:’  I learned about this variety from Laura Masterson years ago when I managed 47th Avenue Farm here in Portland.  Stupice is another very early to mature and productive indeterminate variety that produces firm plum sized fruit with wonderful sweetness.  I love Stupice because of it’s versatility. It is great sliced for a sandwich or burger, chopped into salads, or slow roasted in the oven until it condenses into something entirely different and utterly magical.

‘Brandywine:’  This heirloom variety is universally adored, and for good reason.  With distinctive “potato leaf” foliage on a strong and hearty plant, Brandywine is more productive than many heirlooms and produces large, delicate, burgundy fruits with incredible sweetness and richness.  This is the perfect tomato for Caprese salad. ...Or for eating like an animal in the garden, seeds and juices spilling over and ruining a good shirt.

 

My three favorite tomato varieties, from left to right: ‘Stupice,’ ‘Brandywine,’ and ‘Sungold’ (with a few ‘Green Zebras’ thrown in for good measure).

 

Happy Growing, Ian

Owner and Founder, Portland Edible Gardens, LLC



2018 Fall Photo Journal

2018 has been an incredible growing season here in the Portland area! We have been hard at work, as always, supporting people in growing their own organic food at their homes. And now that the rain has finally arrived, we are taking some time to have a look back at all that we have done over the last 10 months! So let’s let the pictures do the talking.

We hope you enjoy this little snapshot into our work (and play!).

Our Friends:

Snoozing in the vegetable garden

Abundant late Summer veggie harvest

This sweet family grew their first vegetable garden ever this year! …No shortage of salad greens today

This sweet family grew their first vegetable garden ever this year! …No shortage of salad greens today

Executive Chef Nadav Bashan with a harvest for the Waverly kitchen

Western Swallowtail visiting the tomatoes

Planting the first seeds of the year

Contentment

I took this photo four years ago planting with these two cuties

…And got the opportunity to plant with them again this Spring!

Would you like a sugar snap pea?

Another first time garden family

Our Gardens:

SW Portland Kitchen Garden

Heartline Apartments Rooftop Garden (Pearl District)

Pearl District Rooftop Garden
Pearl District Rooftop Apartment Vegetable Garden

North Portland Vegetable/Pollinator Garden

Canby Homestead Garden

Our Harvests!:

Honkin’ Zucchini (see the quarter for scale?)

The gardens aren’t the only things that have been growing lately. So has my dear daughter (and our Winter tomato supply)

A boquet of collard greens

Summer tomato abundance

Radish harvest in the Waverly kitchen

A Spring harvest: Lettuce, Spinach, Kohlrabi, Fava Beans, Carrots, Kale, Parsley, Scallions, Beets, Chard, Calendula, Lavender, and Nasturtiums!

Cherriette Radishes

A client sent me this photo with the caption “Atomic Chard!”

Thanks so much for checking out our 2018 Fall Photo Journal and for staying connected with Portland Edible Gardens!

Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @pdxediblegardens and on Twitter @growyourownpdx

And of course, if you would like to get support with growing your own food at home, contact us to set up an initial consultation!

Happy Growing!

- Ian Wilson

Owner and Founder, Portland Edible Gardens LLC

Ian Wilson, Owner, Portland Edible Gardens